Terry Theise Selections presented by: Winewise/The Vienna Wine Company

Tasting of Terry Theise’s
Small Grower Champagnes

Bacar Restaurant, San Francisco
Monday November 7, 2005
(Mostly Joanne’s tasting notes.)

This was an excellent tasting of Terry Theise’s champagnes (the specialist in small growers). The prices range from $35 to $90, roughly. Vilmart and Geoffroy really stood out. There were also six relatively inexpensive sparkling wines from elsewhere (the Gysler and Schloss Gobelsburg were the two Theise wines). My bottle scores are on the conservative side for this tasting, as many of the wines were too cold, making judging extra challenging. - Jack

1998
Aubry Le Nombre D’or, Sablet, Brut, Blanc de Blancs Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Chard. Quaffer. Very acidic center with a smooth finish. Lemons.
2-4?
NV
Aubry Brut, 1er Cru Bubbly, yeasty.
1?
1998
Aubry Aubry de Humbert, Brut 1er Cru Very pale. No. Acids on finish.
1
1998
Aubry Le Nombre D’Or, Campanae Veteres Vites Yeast on nose. Medium bubbles. Happy to drink. Acidic finish.
2-3+
NV
Aubry Brut Rosé Sandwich bread nose.
1
2000
Aubry Sablé Rosé Brut, 1er Cru Acidic. Tart. Not to my taste.
1-2
NV
H. Billiot Brut Reserve, Grand Cru Frothy, too much mousse. Acidic finish. Very pale color.
1-2
1998
H. Billiot Brut Grand Cru Food Friendly. Very acidic finish.
2-3
NV
H. Billiot Cuvee Julie Golden Raspberries with lemon center. Needs food.
1
NV
H. Billiot Cuvee Laetitia, Brut Sugar on nose. Very yeasty and bubbly center. Bright lemony finish.
3+
NV
H. Billiot Brut Rosé Ripe black pulms. Amazing nose and palate. Really interesting.
2-3
NV
Chartogne-Taillet Brut, Blanc de Blancs Tart hard minerally center.
3?
NV
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Ste. Anne, Brut Very Bubbly. Something I don’t like. High acids.
1?
NV
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Fiacre, Brut 1999. Really acidic, very pale. Really long finish.
2?
1999
Chartogne-Taillet Brut Thin center. Plain
1?
NV
Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs D’Ay, Grand Cru Smooth golden. Tart. Really great with food.
3
1997
Gaston Chiquet Bland de Blancs D’Ay, Grand Cru Warm honey and peaches.
3-4
NV
Gaston Chiquet Carte Verte, Brut Corked/Off Bottle
 
NV
Gaston Chiquet Cuvee de Reserve Balanced acidity. A lot of yeast in center. Probably good flat.
1-2
1998
Gaston Chiquet Carte D’Or, Brut Green plums? Slightly floral.
1
1997
Gaston Chiquet Special Club Brut Tastes unoaked. Chardonnay characteristics. Good acids.
2?
NV
Fleury Fleur de l’Europe, Brut Really frothy. Weird perfumey center. Jasmine? Strange
1-3
1998
Fleury Cuvee Robert Fleury White wine characteristics/complexity. Frothy in mouth.
2-3
1996
Fleury Brut Yeasty candy. Sweet egg bread. Sweet – too sweet.
1?
NV
Fleury Fleur de L’Europe Rosé Brut Tart. Light salmon. Tart center with high acids.
2
NV
Julien Fouet Cremant de Loire Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc. Green grapes on nose. Tart green grape center.
2+
NV
Julien Fouet Cremant de Loire Rosé Cabernet Franc. Very light pink color. Tastes like rosé wine. Rosé wine finish.
3+
NV
René Geoffroy Cuvee de Reserve, Brut We loved the style of all of his wines! Good center characteristics. Slightly bitter finish. Needs Food!!
4-6
NV
René Geoffroy Cuvee Selectionnee From 30 year old vines. 80% PN/20% Chard. 2000. Good even center. Balanced.
3-4
NV
René Geoffroy Cuvee Volupte Very very old vines. 80% Chard/20% PN. Very very interesting. Complex center. Fruity.
3-4+
NV
René Geoffroy Brut Rosè 100% PN. Lots of mousse. Smells like rosè. Yum.
3-6
NV
Pierre Gimonet Cuis, 1er Cru, Brut 100% Chardonnay. Slightly bitter finish that I don’t like. Very clean finish. Wines from Gimmonet were all fresh, crisp and clean – and bright but not that much depth.
2-3
1998
Pierre Gimonet Cuvee Oenophilie, Extra Brut, 1er Cru Slightly yeasty, minerally.
1-2
2000
Pierre Gimonet Cuvee Gastronome, Brut, 1er Cru Thin center. Clean long finish.
1?
1999
Pierre Gimonet Fleuron, Brut Yeast on nose. Blend of Grand and 1er Cru. More golden color. Subtle. White wine finish.
3-4
1998
Pierre Gimonet Special Club, Brut Minerally.
3?
1998
Pierre Gimonet Vintage Collection (Magnums) Slight sweetness on nose. Great balance. The best of all.
4-6
2001
Gysler Scheurebe Sekt Bundle of Scheu (Rheinhessen) White wine elements. Long finish.
 
NV
Marc Hebrart Cuvee de Reserve, Brut Mousse-y, smooth center.
2+
NV
Marc Hebrart Selection, Brut Green grassy, herbal elements.
 
1999
Marc Hebrart Special Club Granny smith apples! Nose and finish green and tart. Joanne likes!
1-2
NV
Jean Lallement Brut Grand Cru 80%PN/20% Chard. Rich full center. Good! On lees for 8 mons. 1998/99
4-6
NV
Jean Lallement Reserve, Grand Cru Brut 80%PN/20% Chard. Oldest vines older than 30 years. Awesome nose.
4
NV
Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Brut, Blanc de Blancs Muscat grapes on nose. Fresh sweet green grapes. Screams fresh grapes.
2?
NV
Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus, 1er Cru, Extra Brut Bright acids, watery. Acidic Finish.
1
2000
Larmandier-Bernier Cramant, Vielles Vignes, Grand Cru Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs Creamy, bright, acidic. Some minerals.
2
1998
Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Brut, Blanc de Blancs Creamy thin acidic center. Some minerals with an acidic finish.
1?
NV
Larmandier-Bernier Brut Tradition Interesting, weird berry thing with yeast. Jack liked.
3-4
NV
A. Margaine Cuvee Traditionelle, Brut 90% Chard/10% PN. Hint of eastern spices on nose. Needs food. Slightly tart bitter finish.
 
1998
A. Margaine Special Club, Brut 100% Chard. Brioche nose. Yeasty and thick center. Surprisingly good.
 
NV
A. Margaine Brut Rosè 87% Chard/13% PN. 2002. Bright rose color. Watery center. Not to my taste.
 
NV
A. Margaine Demi-Sec Pale color. Sweetness on center. Slight sweetness and some bitterness on finish.
 
NV
Jean Milan Brut Carte Blanche, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs Clean bright acids. Good.
1
NV
Jean Milan Brut Speciale, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Has 1yr more on lees than the Carte Blanche. Honey and herbs. Good. Pleasant.
1
2000
Jean Milan Terres de Noel, Grand Cru Brut, Blanc de Blancs White wine characteristics, complexity. Sweet.
2-3
1998
Jean Milan Cuvee Symphorine Served too cold. Golden berries on center. Interesting.
?
NV
Jean Milan Cuvee Tenderesse, Sec, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs Herbs and sweetness. Good
2?
NV
Jean Milan Cuvee de Reserve Wow! White chocolate with a hint of nutmeg. Interesting.
1?
NV
Jean Milan Rosé
Charles de La Milaniere
Bright deep rose color. Strawberry on nose. Dried strawberries. Interesting. Almost a burnt sugar finish.
3+
NV
Pere Ventura Cava, Brut, Nature Tresor Yeast and rose petals on nose. Really dry. Unexpected finish certainly drinkable.
1 – for the nose
NV
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil Fresh Baguette nose. Yeasty bready center. Good.
1
1998
Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs, Grand Cru Brut Medium yeasty. Ok White wine characteristics/complexity. Hmm
2+
1998
Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Brut, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Le Mesnil Acidic, golden
2-3
NV
Schloss Gobelsburg Brut Reserve, Riesling Foamy. Sweet. Jack likes. Good acids on finish 2-3
NV
Tissot Cremant du Jura Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. Sugared rose petal nose. Light rose. Floral center. 2
1999
Varnier-Fanniere Grand Vintage, Grand Cru, Blanc de Blancs Slightly sweet first notes. Almost anise on center.
2-5?
NV
Vilmart Cuvée Grand Cellier 70% Chard/30% PN. Almost chemical nose. Floral Slightly candy center. Good. All wines tasted were too cold. Water but long finish.
3
1999
Vilmart Grand Cellier D’Or 80% Chard/20%PN. Slightly savory honey nose. Yellow herbs. Pollen notes on center. Nice character.
3
1997
Vilmart Coeur de Cuvée Really interesting. Complex. Slightly gold berries. Good acids. Good.
4-6
1997
Vilmart Cuvée Creation Golden currants on finish. Good acids.
3?
NV
Vilmart Cuvée Rubis (Rosé) Jack loves this!
6+
1998
Vilmart Grand Cellier D’Or Rubis (Rosé) 60% PN/40% Chard. Paler flesh color. Tannic. Raspberry jam finish. Also really good with food.
3-5+



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